Thursday, June 19, 2025

RASDAK 2025 Black Hills and Badlands Journey Ȟesápa Ektá Makȟóšiča íčhimani June 1 - June 6, 2025

 

Follow the arrows!  The official route marker.  Miss one and a turn is missed!!

This year's edition of RASDAK, (Ride Around South Dakota) saw us riding a great loop from the Black Hills to the Badlands and back.  Hermosa, SD, was our beginning and end point. Our overnights were as follows:

Hermosa

Hill City

Hot Springs

Mahpiya Luta School

Martin

Rockyford School

Hermosa

RASDAK has been through much of this area before.  Hill City has been a start twice before.  Hot Springs and Mahpiya Luta School aka Red Cloud School have been overnights in the past.  A few of the ride's highlights have been also been visited such as Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse, Custer State Park, the Needles Highway, Wounded Knee and Badlands National Park.  We were also traveled through the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, home of the Oglala Lakota Nation.  But it is always an awe inspiring and special to revisit these places.


Prologue:  Getting There: Des Moines to Hermosa

Google Maps said it would be an 8+ hour drive.  At 8 am Saturday morning, March 31st, Mary and I had to drop our just-turned-1-year-old Great Pyrenees puppy off at Hotel Puppy.  Despite her pleas, we did not shell out another $20 for a room with a television.  Then stop at Wal Mart to pick up a tarp for the tent and finally arrive home and load up the Honda Ridgeling.  We folded up the rear seats and the bicycles fit inside with the removal of their front wheels.  We took 4 bags weighing no more than 40 lb each, 3 of which fit in the truck's trunk, the 4th had to be placed in the bed proper.  In case of rain, that bag would be put in back with the bikes.

Crossing the Mighty Missouri River at Chamberlin, SD.  Smoke from Canadian wildfire has blanketed the Midwest.

The Mighty MO again.  There will be a photo of this river 7 days later with smokefree skies. 

Air quality here was so bad that my eyes were watering.  Mitchell, SD

We headed west on I-80 to I-880 then north on I-29 and then I-90 until Rapid City, SD.  Cruise control with only stops for gasoline and bodily needs.  In South Dakota, the speed of the freeway is 80 mph which is wonderful for making time but bad for gas mileage especially for a large V-6.  But the alternative was to take slower state highways littered with towns and slow drivers.  But my MO is to stop every half tank and top off the tank an stretch the legs.  One note of excitement was the Toyota Corolla that must have been doing 100+ mph when it passed us and the subsequent SD Trooper Tahoe that shot out of the median and almost hit us in pursuit of said Toyota.  I hit the brakes and Mary asked if I was the target of the cop.  "Can't be, I'm doing the speed limit!"  The trooper shut off his lights and sped through the road weaving through traffic until its prey was obtained and then full lights and the Corolla's driver pulled over.  

It was a long trip and we got there about 650 pm in time to catch part of the "mandatory meeting" at the fairgrounds.  Sign in, get our credentials and shirts.  Wristbands, maps, helmet stickers.  But first we unpacked, set up our bedding in the school's gymnasium and then went to the check in and meeting.  The people who signed us in laughed and said we should have waited a little longer to avoid the boring speeches.  We just wanted to see which of our friends were there for the ride.


You see this every night during RASDAK, bicycles parked in the hallways of the school.

My LeMond and Mary's Liv

The business end of my Dura Ace shifters.  Easiest solution for replacing my shifters.  Kept the original STI for the brakes which are spot on perfect.  If I decide to return to brake/shifter combo or get aerobars, I can use these bar end shifters on the bars.

Post meeting libations were at the Trails West Saloon.  Joe, Jeff, Mindy, Peter  and others.  Pretty low key, one and done, not our usual rager.  Just as well since the one cop in town spotted me driving there, my vehicle absolutely standing out.

Day 1: Retaking the Needles Highway on the way to Hill City 43 miles




I took this photo because I really want this to be my property so I could live here.



Today's route took us to Custer State Park, the State Game Lodge that served as President Calvin Coolidge's Summer White House in 1927, the Needles Highway and Sylvan Lake before our overnight town of Hill City.  I was a bit apprehensive about Hill City because it rained on us the prior two visits.  No rain this time but rumors of rain, always.  From the photos one can see that this area of South Dakota has had plenty of rain.  Everything was green, fire danger low.

Early morning riders before the climbing began.



Calvin Coolidge's Summer White House






We were looking forward to this.  In we rode this highway with RASDAK in 2019 during the RASDAK Round Up.  This is a beautiful road completed in 1922 that has 3 tunnels, one aptly named Eye of the Needle at the top.  Sure, it is a mountain but after experiencing it in 2019 I could only describe it as the rich friend's Hot Wheel track set that your parents were willing to spend a Grand on for you.  Filled with fast curves, climbs, descents, a bridge that you ride under then over and tunnels.  IIRC it took 45 minutes to climb with maybe a couple of 2-minute breaks then the greatest downhill I ever had the privilege of descending.   This year we would do it backwards.  What could possibly go wrong?

More climb than before, heat and vehicular traffic.  How up is up?  Every switchback lead to a steeper climb.  I could not remember it being this bad before.  I'm on the same bike.  Maybe I am really that out of shape.  But I was not the only one suffering.  Martha said she was climbing at 2.3 mph on her recumbent!  People were walking up the climbs.  The few places where cyclists could take a rest were always occupied.  And it was getting to be 85° F and sunny.  Very bright day.  

I pulled off into a miraculously large area that I named Shady Rest Area.  There was shade and rocks, logs and stumps to sit on.  Someone asked someone what their heart rate was.  I don't monitor that but maybe I should.  My indicators are how I feel, tired, exhausted, pain, thirsty, overheated, out of breath, lactic threshold and angina threshold.  I have not suffered from heart pain in years.  Just wanted to rest a moment.  After I sat down, I noticed how bright it was.  The road and scenery were turning white. and my sunglasses did not seem dark enough.  No freaking out, sometimes I experience this at home sitting at my computer on bright afternoons.  The aura of a migraine??  I listened to someone say that he was going to walk this next climb.  Then I watched someone start but fall over immediately.  Here goes nothing, my turn to climb to the next rest stop.  Every curve was a promise of a reduction in the road grades but often and increase.  People that could caught the SAG.  I passed Tracy who said she "flatlined."  Many people did.



Polaris Slingshot.  Very popular choice for the Black Hills.  Hell, one could have a great time with one of these and an agreeable partner.

There was a collective groan as we noticed that cars were in our upper left coming down a steep section and then turning down the road we were on.  Yes, this turn looks even steeper.  To make the situation worse, not only was it a tight turn but traffic was bad.  All manner of SUVs, trucks, cars and motorcycles were on this road.  Lots of them.  Also, for the Fun Seekers were UTVs and Can Am style three wheeled motorcycles provided by rental shops.  Usually about 5 of these small but road hogging 2-seat vehicles at a time.  Several different groups.


The scent of pine needles wafting through the air was fantastic and took my thoughts away from the pain of it all.  Certainly, better than the Canadian wildfire smoke that tried to kill us the day before.

This cyclist had the best seat.  The tree was a good place for me to rest my carbon horse.

The last precious moments at the Shady Rest before resuming the ride.

The view from the Shady Rest opposite of the road.

Many of us did this.  Teresa said she counted over 40.

The Needles

Keep climbing.  Take a break when possible.  Seemed to get steeper and steeper with every curve.  Someone said that the Eye of the Needle was not far off.  But another 20 minutes if felt it appeared.

Meredith at the Eye of the Needle.  We conversed about the traffic.  She mentioned that UTV groups want access to the Mickelson Trail.  "That's our [bicyclists and pedestrians] only sacred place!"

Plant the flag!!  We reached the top.  Just this narrow tunnel to ride through to a proper scenic overview.  But that was not all that awaited...

These are not the mountain roads you are looking for!  He did have the long blaster rifle with him.

That had to been hot to wear.  Proper mechanical voice.  Think he got tired of answering questions when a woman asked him what the temperature was and he pointed to the screen on back of his motorcycle and told her to "fookin' read."  Speaking about reading...READ THIS

Down now!  Felt great!  By now my shoulders and upper back were killing me from grabbing the bars too tight in hope that such a grip would make the bike climb faster.  Too tired to get into the drops.  Relax and get comfortable and hope this descent lasts until Hill City.  We were on the road we climbed in 2019.  I caught up with a white Jeep SUV that limited my speed to 25 mph.  Then another cyclist joined me.  He said "I'm gonna pass that car!"  Why not?  Probably annoyed a lot of drivers on the way up, continue the love!  I smiled knowing that I was not going to do that but I kept up with him.  Eventually, as traffic slowed the Jeep down, he made his move and got one safe bike length in front of it and claimed his victory.  I stayed back.  I lived this long and really would like to live four or five maybe six decades longer.  

Teresa preparing to leave Sylvain Lake for Hot Springs.  Get that paper boy!

Me, financially, spiritually and bodily!

Sylvan Lake finally appeared, and I exited the road.  Break time.  Get off this carbon horse and refuel with the gaggle of other Rasdakians and tourists.  Two bottles of Powerade and a gas station type sandwich.  Sat out front on a bench and consumed while another aura hit.  This one was cool.  Not only the road turned bright white but so did the faces of the people next to me.  Time to get back on the bike, one last climb then the downhill to Hill City.  Please note that the aura goes away when I resume biking.  Yeah, I'll see a doctor about it or get darker sunglasses.

Comedian Skyler Bolks.  Probably on his sword fight routine.


Europa's finest skunk lager

I was and I did.


Contemplating life and relaxing.





The ride into town was nice.  Wide open scenery and a decent shoulder. Left turn into town proper and a slight climb to the school.  Met Mary and suggest that we go to the HippieRockStar Boutique Beer and Wine Bar like we did in 2022 with Marti June but it was closed.  So we walked back stopping at a bakery cafe that sold beer.  I had two Stellas, much deserved Stellas.  Once again we slept on the floor of the high school gym.  There were prospects of rain.  Ate across the street to Subway before going to the Lost Cabin Brewery.  This brewery was a lot nicer than the Hippierockstar plus it had a wonderful outdoor area.  Great selection of offerings.  I had a NEIPA and a Hefeweizen and Mary 1 and a half sours.  I finished her first one which may have been watermelon and pickle juice flavored.  Tonight's entertainment was a bicycling comedian, Skyler Bolks, whose jokes probably offended people but what the hay.  Back to Subway for a Pepsi Zero to mix my CINCPAC SPECIAL Old Fashion in so I could sleep.  I did something that I had not done in almost a year, I took too NSAIDs before bed to make my aches and pains go away.  IIRC, the lights were left on all night, not all but enough that I did not require a torch (flashlight).  The night before it was very dark, which I require.  

It was an extremely tough day but one in which I can say that I was proud that I completed even if I had to walk the bike on occasion.  Kasey, if you are reading this, let us return here but ride it in the proper direction.

DAY 2 HILL CITY TO HOT SPRINGS 54 miles

A much better day and a few climbs.  Two route options, the first was the Crazy Horse Memorial Route of 51 miles and 2000' less climb and 12 less miles than the second choice, Mount Rushmore/Iron Mountain Road.  We chose the former.  Both routes meet at the Blue Bell General Store.  We also had a chance to visit the Wind Cave National Park and roll by at least 100 furry cows aka bison.  My extra miles were from missing the turn to our camp at the Hot Springs HS (Bison Center).

Crazy Horse.  Note the crane on top.

Custer, South Dakota.


My new current Speed Record for Single Bike.  Beat the 46.5 set by this same bike set in June of 2014 while on RASDAK heading east before crossing the Missouri River.

Our first encounter with bison this day.

Kraig Rust driving a SAG vehicle.  Of note is how close these bison are to the road especially the calves.

Lots of calves which makes this dangerous because the cows WILL protect them.

 
Crazy Horse was among the highlights.  I hope it is completed before I de-spirit and continue on to the next realm.  We visited this memorial during Faces to Falls aka the 1st RASDAK in 2013.  This time I did not ride down the hill to get closer.  Maybe we came in from a different side or road.  Kraig Rust, back in 2013, produced a rock back at camp after visiting this site and said he was going to give this to his granddaughter and telling her that it was a booger from Crazy Horse's nose.

David Bowie Moment

The sequence of events is most likely out of order.  After traversing the bison grazing land we started climbing again.  Then the game of how long I continue to wear the jacket began.  Eventually I stop.  Teresa was already stopped and Tracy pull up and stopped here as well.  Stripping layers is contagious.  Gloves, bye-bye.  Jacket, time to go.  I wrapped it around my pump and shoved it into the middle jersey pocket.  Time to climb again.

Maybe we were a bit apprehensive about the climb after yesterday's abuse.  But we moved on.  Teresa and I were in conversation range and talking takes the mind off of work aka the climb.  Both of us had David Bowie tracks going through our heads.  Modern Love for Teresa and Teenage Wildlife for me.

I catch the paper boy
But things don't really change
I'm standing in the wind
But I never wave bye-bye
But I try
I try

So y'all train by shadow-boxing, search for the truth
But it's all, but it's all used up
Break open your million dollar weapon
And push your luck, still you push, still you push your luck

Fitting.  Mine is more of lament for not training for climbs back in January.  But wait, things improve!  The scenery is fantastic.  Absolutely gorgeous and that takes my mind off my sore legs.  I'm on Iron Moutain Road.  And there it was, around the curve, the Hot Wheels bridge!  Ride underneath, curve to the right making a cycling version of a climbing Split-S and cross the bridge.  It was my favorite part of the ride when we first rode this highway a few years ago.  I stopped for photos. 

Tracy.  The "we're past the bison and we are climbing" stripping.

Teresa, such a lovely spot to remove warmth layers.


The green strip dissecting the road is a cattle gate.  Large herding animals will not cross them because there are gaps between the steel bars.  I like to bike over them at least 20 mph out of saddle.  Creates a vibration.  At slow speeds the vibrations are teeth loosing jolts and poorly secured items on your bicycle fall off.  This rider experienced such a jolt.  She blocked a lane while picking up her flotsam  of her bike.  It would have been easier and safer for all if she would have leaned her bike the guard rail or set it down on the shoulder before retrieving her stuff.  But these roads are so empty that one gets away with it.  I was stopped on a dirt road to relieve my bladder.

I think bison are out to seek revenge on Whitey.  Custer State Parks recommend staying 100 yards away from bison.  That is the length of a football field.  Not always possible but just don't get closer than necessary.

Looking through the archives I discovered that I took a photo of this sign the last time I bike on this road.  The sun took its toll on this sign.

Madison, Fred's dog, looking for food.  This dog is very well behaved.  So well behaved that I think she has a human soul.  I am jealous of people who can have their canine companions unleashed and the dog does not run off and returns to where it needs to be.  My dog is an independent thinker and thus ignores human commands.

Fred and his spread!

Ride along further and curve to the right and hidden from view a giant bison appears greeting me as I roll on.  Close to the road!  Not out of danger yet!  But hills have tamed as we have left the mountain.  Prairie dogs appear, popping their heads out of holes, chattering and standing there watching us.  Another stop for photos.  Continue until I see Fred's RV set up for smoothie sales.  This would be my first time soliciting his goods.  Peach smoothies were ready so peach I had and a peanut butter sandwich.  Proceeds of your donation go to charity helping people with organ transplants.

The Hot Wheels Bridge.  Go underneath, curve to the right and cross over.  Continue and make another right and a bison will be waiting.

A view from above looking at the road I was on.

A selfie from above.

Next official stop was at the Blue Bell General Store at mile 25.  Finally caught up with Mary and had a Gatorade.  Miles before was aq outstanding curvy downhill that speed needed to be checked often.  I was after that elusive 40 mph.  But no luck.  Braking was required near that magic moment or else I would fly off the road and hopefully die instantly instead of suffering extreme pain for the rest of my life.  When the yellow signs say "10 mph" obey them.  There was a moment when adrenalin coursed through my body as I approached the edge of losing.  But in a safer moment I was content to hit 39.9 mph.  Felt like second place but I was alive and did not crash.

Did not stop at the Wind Cave National Park.  I've been in caves before.  Since I lack the ability to ride as fast as others I am consumed with anxiety about falling behind.  Move on.  However, after learning that the Lakota believe that this cave is essential to their creation beliefs, I wish I would have visited.


More bison

Prairie dogs.  Never close enough.




Definitely out of the Black Hills and in the prairie of the Badlands.  Prairie Dog country.  Lots of them squeaking and staring at us..  In and out of holes.  No plague this year, a healthy colony.



June 2nd's Coffee Spot.  Cold brew with oat milk.

Near the school.  We did see this Jeep driving around town.






Finally, the metropolis of Hot Springs, SD, was getting close. I was riding with a couple who appeared confused.  They stopped at a motel and asked me if they missed the turn.  Nope, keep riding down this road and Hot Springs will be very obvious.  It was downhill on a four lane with a wide shoulder.  Signs everywhere advertising businesses, mostly attractions and landscaping services.  The hills were to out left.  Nice road.  I could ride that one all day.  Soon the town emerged, and it was time to find the school.

Hot Springs.  We normally walk after a day of riding.  I had little desire to ride up another hill.  This is not the steep hill to the school.


On our previous overnight here we did not stay at the school.  We camped on a soccer field.  I never saw the school nor the arrows marking the right turn to the steep hill leading to the school.  Instead, I continued through town passing many of the places I saw before such as the bars, Chinese buffet ect.  Damn, I have not had Chinese food in quite some time.  Eventually I saw a coffee shop and decided to make that my stop.  Caffeine and time off the bike.  Text Mary.  Ask locals where this school was.  The locals were wrong or I did not tell them which school I was looking for.  I was really expecting to see the soccer field.  Back on the bike and I almost rolled out of town.  I stopped at an intersection past Big Time Pizza to consult Google Maps and was interrupted by a phone call from Mary.  We met by the turn I missed.  That hill sucked.  Let's place the school where it will not be destroyed by humanity erasing flood.  

It was an hour later that I discovered that technology moved on without us.  We have the latest and greatest cords to charge our phones but the ancient cords for the USB flashers were left at home.  We only have 20 at home but packed ZERO for this adventure.  I raided the Lost & Found box and found one and returned it when both flashers were fully charged.  I think I'll pull a handlebar cap off and place a cable inside the bar before placing the cap back on.  Or make a checklist.

We ate at the pizza place that was on the way out of town.  Mary wanted a small pizza but knowing how many calories I was burning I ordered a medium.  Consume when food is available!  I do not eat heavy during the ride and usually like to get 30 miles in at the start.  Coffee and a bar or perhaps a small breakfast sandwich keeps me rolling for miles.  Carry a couple of Larabars with me in case of hunger.  Eat when I reach the overnight.


Dawn, playing on her phone.  Jeff contemplating the meaning of life.

The owner of the garage said he paid $10 for this bicycle...

That night, a local allowed us to hold the Unofficial RASDAK Committee Meeting in his garage.  Here it was decided by Doctor Kraig, he's not a real doctor but is willing to take a look, that fresh roadkill need to be beaded.  Beads were handed out.  An argument ensued when Kraig produced a Zip-loc of beads.  Dawn said that those beads were hers since they were in a bag.  Kraig retorted that large baggies are the best place to store them and claimed that they were his.  regardless, we were given one beaded necklace each and told to do our best.

It was a good day to ride and I felt good at the end of the day.

DAY THREE HOT SPRINGS TO MAHPIYA LUTA (RED CLOUD SCHOOL) 61 miles

No passport required, just an open heart.

Scenery changes...



In my state and city, people stick small crosses in the ground to mark the place of automobile fatailities.  Usually, Iowans will also leave flowers and candles and other mementos at such crosses.  Here in South Dakota, these signs are placed.  These are very sun faded.  The back of the signs say "THINK."

It rained while we slept.  Possibility of rain for today.  Started with the rain jacket on as a warmth layer.  It would be a good day of riding.  We left the Black Hills and started entering the Badlands.  Say farewell to the mountains and hello to gentle rolling hills. 3 convenience stores to refuel at.  Brunch at the Prairie Wind Casino and the overnight at the school.  We would be inside the Pine Ridge Reservation.  RASDAK has used this route and overnight before.  US Highway 18 would provide the pavement.

I beaded this beautiful bird.  I felt I was honoring it, not mocking it out of some dumb human activity.  I was going to text this phot to Kraig but then I remember he lost his phone last night.

At mile 6 there was a option to take the trail that follows the beautiful shoreline of Angostura Reservoir.  Unfortunately, 2 miles of gravel, wet rain-soaked gravel.  I declined and saved 6 miles and kept my carbon horse a little cleaner.  After passing that optional turn, I felt like I was lost.  Sure, the arrow pointed the direction for those that did not partake in the option, but there was no one ahead nor behind me for quite some.  I don't mind being by myself, quite used to it, but lost and alone is something I don't relish.  Eventually, while I stopped to take off my jacket and wrap it around the pump and stuff both into the middle pocket of the jersey, someone caught up.  I am slow.  They thought they were lost as well.


One of two Studebakers Commanders parked at Forney's.  This is the newer one.

The older Commander.  I like this one better.  Look at those whitewalls! Chrome!

Of note is this split rear window

Windshield is split, too.

No airbags, that steering wheel will kill a driver.



At mile 23, cue sheet miles BTW, Forney's/Oelrich convenience store would be the stop.  We stopped here before when it was very hot and sunny.  Now it is cold with overcast.  Stepping into the building it was warm.  Lots of Rasdakians here.  Not a modern C Store, something of a time capsule, old signs and old cars abound.  Yet all the services and offerings a cyclist needs, heat, flush toilets, picnic tables and food.  I consumed a can of Moutain Dew and a gas station sandwich, Italian IIRC.  

Gary made it this year.  I wish I could have ridden with him but we seemed to be on different schedules.  Here he is at the casino.

The cue sheet said 13 miles but the big sign on the side of the road said 12 miles to the Prairie Wind Casino.  This was our lunch stop the first time and would be our brunch stop today.  Last time, one of my tires picked up a piece of glass in the parking lot of the casino.  Brown glass, possibly from a discarded Bud Light bottle.  Today, Bud Light bottles were all over the grass at the edge of the road's shoulder, mocking me.  Please, Lord, no repeat.  The wind picked up and it felt colder going this direction.  I am grateful that Mary insisted that I put the jacket back on.  I was shivering and shaking at Forney's.  Hills were rollers and the semi-trucks pulling trailers with 30 wheels appeared now and then going in the opposite direction.  I traveled that 12/13 miles without a flat and parked the bike against the casino ready for a warm break and some food.

Meanwhile in the sticks
Proles wretch, dance in cardboard pants
And I guess this goes to show
The lie dream of a casino souls scene

The Fall 1981

Food will have to wait.  Long wait.  There was one cook and one server.  Took forever to get the server's attention to place our order of two $5 breakfasts.  This stop was at least an hour and a half.  At least coffee was free at the Big Winners Room.  But when I went there the air pot was empty, so the attendant used the server's pitcher, and she scoffed at him.  No cream either.  Something was horribly wrong.  RASDAK informed them that 200+ cyclists and support would be visiting.  Labor costs?  People calling in?  Unemployment rates too low in these here parts?  Improper scheduling.  As lunch approached, a second cook arrived.  To add insult to injury, we could not pay since the one person with access to the cash register disappeared.  Wait some more.  I should have left $11 plus tip on the table but I was almost amused and wanted to see this train wreck to the end.  At least, I hoped, I would not be the last rider in.

If the bicycle is not comfortable, it will not be ridden.  Ragbrai veteran.

Tim and his aluminum horse.

Back in the saddle again it would be another 13 miles to the Oglala convenience store.  I stopped at Fred's RV parked along the way and grabbed a bite and checked my water.  There was another couple there and Tim pulled up.  We talked a bit and explained the padding on his bike.  Comfort.  I then took my tights off as I no longer needed them.  Fred carried them into the overnight.  

As one approaches Oglala, one will see a gravel bike/pedestrian path that leads into town.  Once inside the community there are paved sidepaths or wide sidewalks.  The sand and assorted detritus litter the path so I stay on the road until it is time to turn into the general store.  No other bicycles are here but someone rolls in as I am parking my bike.  A few rez dogs around looking for soft humans to give them food.  A/C was not an option inside as I searched for a drink.  I am spoiled.  Gatorade rehydration square bottle.  Gatorade seems to be not in favor is this area.  Powerade everywhere.  Bleh!!  I think I just poured into my empty bottle and rolled on.  11 miles until the end.

Decent rolling hills until I the rear tire begins to offer more feedback on the bumps and cracks of the pavement.  Glancing down reveals the tire is a bit wider.  Sigh, a punctured tube!  I've been a courteous biker, moving over to the sandy shoulder whenever there was a car back.  Speaking of said cars, a lot of the non-commercial vehicles, mostly 15 to 20 year old Chevrolet Impalas, reek of marijuana.  Better give them room because obviously if they have to do drugs while driving, they are either stressed out or suffering from pain or both and probably not the safest drivers on Highway 18.  I am glad I have a mirror.  Back to the flat.  I see a SAG vehicle at the bottom of a hill.  Aha, he will have a floor pump!  The bike rack on back of the Jeep made a nice work stand.  I carry a tube, levers and a mini-pump.  I am ready but a floor pump is nectar for the person rectifying a flat tire.  Get the tire off and John from Berry Fast Bikes pulls up.  Wow!  Great service!  He checks the tire for the troublemaker, finds none, asks if I want to buy a tube.  Yes, I am 9 miles from the overnight and really do not desire to finish the day by waling the bike or hoping for a SAG.  He remembered the year I took the Domane with a shooter of vodka in the frame compartment, so I found the photo on my phone and showed it to the other SAG driver.  We Laughed.  Thank you, John, sorry I needed the tenner back.  

Our bikes were to be held overnight in the school proper where they would be safe behind locked doors.  I need to use the restroom and joked to Mary that the signage would be in the local language.  Joke was on me, they were.  Don't ask me how to pronounce them.


Tracy's bike.  I laughed when I saw the Bar Mitts until I thought about it.  It can get cold out here.  easy to install and remove.  We may bring two pairs next RASDAK.

Here Matt is taping spare spokes on the seat stay.

Suntour. Look at the wingnut and cosmic ray deflector!  That chain will not be sucked up into the spokes.

Ever see a Sears bicycle tour through the Black Hills and Badlands on a week long ride?  I have.  Modified and meticulously serviced.  This is not the $5 garage sale bike, well maybe, but Paul repacks all the bearings and rebuilds the wheels. 

Campagnola derailleur.  Not the original but put on this bike for greater range.

I admire people that ride retro bikes.  This cannot be easy for mountain roads. A strong rider.

The remaining 9 miles were pleasant and eventually I reached Red Cloud School, parked the bike inside, ate two dinners, yes two dinners sold by students at the school.  Hot dog and sloppy Joe, chips and two cookies plus bottle of water $8.  My second selection was the $5 hot dog, chips, cookies and water.  I saved the chips and cookies for an evening snack.

Magpies letting a cat know that they do not want a feline around.  The back door of Serena Hall.

"I'm just hoping this door will open so I can get some roast beef."

Dramatic sky at the cemetery gate.

"Death is not slow."




Sunrise and sunset.  I may have that inscribed on my marker.

Red Cloud's place of rest.  Great sky in the background.

Every culture makes God in their own likeness and image.  Not just a European thing.  Stations of The Cross inside the church at Red Cloud School.  Notice that it was women who took care of The Lord??

D is for day pills and supplements.  N is for night.  That big orange one, it is for triglycerides and is also the most expensive prescribed pill of them all.  The big yellow one is CoQ10, a supplement, and the most expensive one I take.  Pull them out before bedtime so I can pack the stuff I will not need in the morning and place a bag into the truck now instead of 5 am.

The gymnasium at Red Cloud School.  Of note is the light brown cover they laid on the floor to protect it.  Clever.  Two years in a row, we did not sleep in a tent.

Settled in, showered and toured the campus.  Dinner was a roast beef meal.  Afterwards Mary and I visited the grave of Red Cloud.  Magpies are common here and last time a priest explained that the variety of bird is only known here and in Korea.  

Entertainment for the night was at the church.  Deacon Bill White spoke about the possible canonization of Black Elk, a medicine man, cousin of Crazy Horse and fought with him at the Battle of Little Bighorn, survivor of the Wounded Knee Massacre and went to Great Britian with Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show where he was arrested or detained by the police for being a Jack the Ripper suspect (language issue).  Subsequently in 1904 he converted to Catholicism and was baptized and served as a catechist to the Native People.  People believed that he was responsible for healing a baby who had holes in her heart but after someone recited his prayer and anointed her with water from Black Elk's home the girl's heart healed and she lived.   If canonized, Black Elk will be the first Native American man to become an official Saint of the Catholic Church from South Dakota.




"walk the good road to the day of quiet."








Day 4 Red Cloud School to Martin, SD 51 miles



A promising sky

There was rain and rumors of rain.  Today we paid the bill.  It was not bad.  A gentle female rain, soft and gentle, nurturing for the earth but goes on and on and on and on.  Light enough if the one did not stop, one could have beat most of it.  Perhaps leaving at 5 am or 4 am.  I'd been studying the weather for two weeks.  What part of South Dakota should I look at.  Eventually, for this day, I looked at Martin.

Our first stop as at Higher Ground Coffee Shop in Pine Ridge, the most populus city in Oglala County and home of tribal headquarters.  Mary and I tend to blow of breakfast.  We are usually hungry in the morning.  Coffee, however, is a necessity.  We drank outside and perhaps ate a Larabar and talked to Greg and Anne from Johnston, IA.  There were 2 or 3 rez dogs in the patio.  No threat, just looking for food.  One finds them at every establishment.  Soon we felt the drops of rain.  Light but time to move.  

On the road, Highway 18 again, a large shoulder but road construction.  We were early enough, and the construction did not matter.  But two things were bothersome.  First, Tribal Police used very loud horns to tell riders to get on the shoulder.  Lots of sand and debris on the shoulder.  Second, rez dogs were out in force.  One ran out to attack the biker in front of me and a second was barking loudly at my rear derailleur.  It was said that one dog bit the tire or wheel of one bike.  I'm not sure if that person went down or not.  I saw a house that had at least 7 of these dogs in the yard but they were staring at a dog in the driveway.  The current model of rez dog is some sort of German Sheppard mix, black and brown and large.  I don't know why they are not restrained better.  Some had collars.  Perhaps the people of the reservation do not believe in chaining dogs up or keeping them fenced in.  They are free spirits, aggressive but free.  If there were in my state, there numbers would be limited by lead poisoning.  But the further from Pine Ridge, the less there were.

The turn off for Wounded Knee was at mile 14.  It was raining, it was cold and we did not feel like adding another 50 miles, just to visit the site of the massacre is a 9 mile trip, mostly downhill and 9 miles back mostly uphill.  We were there previously on a better day.  This was the third time I have biked past this intersection.  Of note, the sign asking residents to "clean up around the outside of your house" was missing.

Such fun. Flat #2

16 miles to Batesland but I had an unwanted stop 9 miles away from that town.  The front tire was feeling a bit rough.  I looked down and it was a bit wider.  DAMN! Another flat.  No SAG with a pump for me.  But I was prepared.  Lean the bike against a pole, remove the front wheel.  Unzip my rain jacket and pull the pump, levers and tube from the left pocket and get to work.  People stopped to ask if I was alright.  I was expect being wet, cold and about 30 miles from Martin.  I sent a text to Mary to notify her of my misfortune.  Looking around I saw that I was at the intersection of 18 and 391 or 3.4 miles from the state of Nebraska.  I was also at the side of Dean's Greens Rec Dispensary.  The green flag with a white cross gave it away.  Dean's is one of many THC stores in the Pine Ridge Reservation.  I did not visit.  

The only problem was that my fingers were very cold and it was difficult to set the last bit of tire on the rim.  I got to use my Bontrager Mini Charger pump for the first time.  I was impressed and as I threw a leg over my bike the little red SAG pulled up and asked if I was ok.  

"Well, if you could time warp me to Batesland Church so I can make up for lost time I would be grateful."  

"Can't do that. My instructions are to pick 2 people up at a time."  

I looked around and said that it would take forever for that to happen and I rolled on.  The road improved and I was making good speed and time.  Soon I pulled into the Batesland gas station and had a 50 cent coffee.  Living on coffee today.  I rolled on to the church but did not stay for breakfast.  I remember having Indian Tacos here in the past.  20 more miles to go.

Martin finally appears in the distance.  I pass the historical marker honoring the crew of a B-17 F that crashed here.  Two women were walking their bikes and I offered to help them with their flat tires.  They declined.  Maybe a mile to town.  The school we stayed at a few years ago was on my left but we were not staying there.  I get to the main road and RASDAKIANS were milling about in all directions.  "We did not see the arrows," most likely washed away by the rain.  So I looked at buildings and saw one that said "Home of the Warriors."  Bingo!  Cut through a rough alley and there the overnight was!

Ever see Andor?  When he was taken to the spaceship that would haul him off to the prison planet.  The first thing the bad guys said was "remove your shoes."  Not that bad on RASDAK but they ask us to remove our bicycle shoes every time, usually at the gymnasium.  But here, no bike shoes anywhere.  My fingers were frozen and I could not undo the binder.  Jeff commented that when I walked it was slosh slosh slosh.  But coffee is available and I help myself.  I find a place to park the bike and take off my jacket and helmet.  Where are we sleeping??

The gym has a new floor and no one can sleep in there.  Carpeted classrooms will be our lodging.  OK, where's Mary and where's our gear?  Just right by where I parked my bike!  Go into one classroom, and there are still students inside, summer school, and enter another classroom and Mary has everything set up.  Time to shower and put on dry clothes.  The shower is in the new gym, no shoes.  OK.  The shower was warm to hot.  Amen.
The principal said I could sleep here.


Comparing and contrasting how filthy our bikes were.

Mary's bike was a lot more dirty than mine.  I picked up a free magazine at the Yesway, ripped out pages to put underneath the bikes, and cleaned and lubed the chains.


I'm not sure how many we drank but the bill with food was $41.

Red Solo cups of water.  Hydration is important.

Good food and cheap cold beer.  Need to stay hydrated!

Grab another coffee and Mary and we leave the school and basically walk across the street and on the other side of a Yesway convenience store is a bar that serves food.  The beer flowed easy.  We also ate.  Sat with a couple from Texas who were on their first RASDAK.  Then I joined the table with my long time friends.   Dinner was later at the Legion.  Lasagna and we had seconds.  Seems all I do is eat.

Dallas Chief Eagle, Lakota Hoop Dancer, performed for us that evening.



About 130 am I became aware that David Sunde is standing above me asking me a question.  I thought it was about plugging in a phone, lights, hearing aids.  I did not understand, and he walked away.  The next day he said he was offering me a cough drop because he thought I had a bad cough but then the phantom cougher barked again ad he moved on. 

Day 5 Martin to Rockyford School 58.6 miles

Day two of rain.  This day it was worse.  And it is still cold.  50°F at 530 am.  55°F when we arrived at the overnight.  Rained all day.  A lot of people gave up and took a SAG.  We backtrack on Highway 18 and take the road to Allen, SD, and the road turns into BIA 4.  Highlights were the All Nations Gathering Center, founded by Becky and Dallas Chief Eagle, Pour Out Your Heart Coffee House in Kyle and the Lakota Prairie Resort Restaurant.  The problem with rainy days is that it is very difficult to take photos.  I did not want to stop in the rain.  So my photos of this day and its lovely scenery are rare.

Leaving town I were a familiar sound.  Not unlike a 150mm howitzer and almost as loud as its boom but a giant white dog.  A Great Pyrenees.  Not a rez dog, much larger, because it stopped at the edge of its property on the other side of 18 and continued barking.  It was letting me know not to come no closer.  Maybe it was telling me to get my arse home and pick my Pyr up from the Doggie Hotel.  Honestly, it was a sight for sore eye.  Soon, Libby, soon.  At least you are warm and dry.  

My first 9 miles were dry.  The sky was not black or dark and I hoped it would remain that way.  Then the occasional rain drop and before long light sprinkles.  Each drop making an audible hit on my jacket.  The bike's computer begins to collect drops.  Soon my glasses and mirror are wet, too.  The scenery, after the Boomdocks turn, is beautiful but my eyes are occupied by the constant need to look in the mirror for traffic and then the road ahead.  No shoulders.  Ride that white line on the right. 

The backtrack ends at Boondock's parking lot.  There is a tent, a table and a large Chevy SUV.  One needs a capable 4x4 in these parts.  The woman running the stand is a relative of RASDAK Director Kasey Abbot.  She is from eastern South Dakota, around Mitchell and Sioux Falls.  When asked what life is like out here in the southwestern part of the state she replied "slow."  We turn north and proceed to the town of Allen.  No one was in Allen except a SAG vehicle.  I had to stop and consult my map to make sure I was not lost.  It should be noted that 6 miles north of Allen, SD, is the North American Pole of Inaccessibility, which is the part of North America that is as far from the ocean as one can get.  Comforting to know this.

Today was a school day and there were several school buses making the rounds.  each followed by about 3 or four cars.  No shoulder to hide on.  Let them pass.  Also garbage day out here.  I reach Allen but no one is there.  I stop to consult the map then notice the convenience store at the bottom of the hill.  No one there but a SAG.  Just keep going.  This rain ain't going to let up.  Soon the road turns into BIA 4 and I make up a country western song about it.

There ain't no shoulders on BIA 4.  
What's a fool like you biking out here for?
If the rez dogs don't git cha, the ditches will
You'll be half in the ground before your body is ever found.

As I was singing this new composition, I passed Connie and then caught up with Dawn.  Dawn was a bit worried about Connie as she looked like she was struggling with the rain and cold and being on the bike for a 5th day in a row.  I don't recall her wearing tights or leggings.  Despite mine being absolutely soaked they still provided warmth.  Soon we would be at the All Nations Gathering Center and would be able to take a break from the weather.

At the All Nations Gathering Center

We do what we must.

Dallas Chief Eagle said that we would come up to some steep hills.  Very fast hills but be careful as the road will be wet.  Someone asked him, "How will I know when I reach the hills?"  He reply was simple, "you will see trees."  He was right.  Suddenly trees appeared and so did the first of two or 3 big hills.  I would have loved this on a dry day but today the road was very wet. I've seen the front tire of my LeMond hydroplane on a slight downhill during a South Dakota monsoon. On a steep divebombing run at speed, say 30 to 40 mph, that would result in a very painful crash, injury and possible death.  I behaved and kept my speed in check.  Good thing, too.  Puddles were forming and the pavement was not the smoothies.  Focus on the line, keep speed down and avoid cracks and puddles.  On the second hill I noticed the light of a bicycle behind me.  I was at 31 mph when the bike caught up with me.  A tandem.  One thing to risk your own safety, another to add another's safety.  But it's an energy game and tandems need the energy to get up the hill.  

Traffic was traffic.  We were on their roads on a rainy day.  They must think that we were nuts.  Most of the cars had their headlights on which really helps when one's mirror is totally covered with rain.  Yeah, take that rain-soaked glove and wipe the mirror and glasses off.  That buys a few minutes.  But I noticed that at least 3 of these vehicles lacked rear license plates.  Great.  "Can you describe the car that rain you over?  It was black and did not have license plates or a temporarily registration on the blacked out rear window.  CASE DISMISSED.  Cannot identify the defendant.!!"

Normally I complain about hills but this time I enjoyed them.  Hills on a cold rainy day require more effort and more effort warms up the body.

Mile 27 and the ANGC was reached.  Time to get off the bike and drink coffee.  Dallas Chief Eagle was standing outside to greet us, in the rain.  Yes, they had coffee and a toilet.  A shower as well!  I don't remember eating anything.  We made a mess of the place.  Every one of us soaked to the bone.  I saw one rider put bread bags over his feet.  "Old school," he said.  Yes, I should have brought shoe covers, and Bar Mitts.  But after a while it was time to go outside and struggle on.  As soon as I got on the road I noticed two things.  First, Kraig arrived with the SAG and Dawn was going to take over SAG duties so he could ride.  I wonder if decided to stay in his truck?  I would have.  Second, my Cateye computer did not start.  It fell victim to the rain and required manual start for the rest of the day.  Just push the button.  While I figured this out Mary once again slipped away.

Mary and Connie and my Smudge jersey getting dry and warm.


The town of Kyle was our next stop.  Pour Out Your Heart Coffee House would be the stop.  Getting there was a bit interesting.  Although it was not a hard rain, it added up.  Water was puddling on the road as the shoulder could not channel the rain to the ditch.  This made the road a bit more dangerous if traffic was heavier.  Traffic was light.  The coffee shop was in a small trailer and people would take their brew into a community center across the property.  Someone had the never-ending task of mopping up after us.  Here there were heaters, a fireplace and chairs.  Strip off the top layers and sit a spell.  Mary, Connie and Tracy were here.  Tim Fairchild, too.

Warm and drying and playing with my phone

6 more miles to the Lakota Prairie Resort Restaurant.  This would be the last house of food to get a meal at.  I was cresting a hill with someone and neither of were sure where the resort was.  Could be on the left of right.  It was on the right, but a dirt/gravel parking lot would have to be traversed.  The lot was cratered with potholes like an airfield that was bombed.  Find a "clean" line.  Joe was there waiting for me and the Bontrager mini-pump I bragged about the day before.  His turn.  I gave it to him and went inside.  I bet these people loved us.  200 filthy rain-soaked cyclists taking over the establishment.  We had two rooms.  Coffee, Diet Coke, omelet.  Fred came in and asked us if we wanted to SAG. "HELL NO!" was the reply.  Some did take him up on the off BUT he had room for people, not bikes.  Bikes would have to wait.  The other SAG vehicles took their share.  17 more miles.

In the rain I was catching up with people, a first for me.  Then I heard someone huffing and puffing.  It was Matt of old bikes fame.  He was trying to catch up with the dude on the Puch.  Matt was in big ring when he passed me.  So I poured on some coal and got ahead of them.  The rain seemed to lighten a bit.  Maybe?  Please, maybe?

By the time I pulled my phone out, 2 of the rex dogs went away.  But this fella could smell something and retrieved a Zip-Loc while knocked this bicycle over.  Average size dog for these parts.



Finally, I reached Sharps Corner (Civil War sounding, right) and stopped to take a photo.  I struggled to get my phone back into the jersey pocket and while this was going on I watched three rez dogs sniff the Puch, knock it over and take a small Zip-Zoc baggie.  One of the dogs looked like a border collie mix but it had at least 6 ticks around one eye.  9 miles left.  Rain is done.  A gentle hill.  Get er done, son!

Now I understand why Kraftwerk hates the number 9

The staple

Kasey negotiating showers for 200+ cyclists

Paul and his bag of tools and things.

Notice in their track, Numbers, 9 is missing?  Also their 9th studio album, Electric Cafe, is their most dull and a flop?  The Mix does not count as a studio  lp because it is just a remix release. Number 9.  Today, once again with 9 miles left to go, another flat. The road felt rough at intervals.  You gotta be kidding!  Flat #3!!  I'm beginning to dislike 9 myself.  At the top of the hill was the Thunder Valley stop.  They were to give tours and such.  I thought it would offer a place where I could sit and fix a flat.  The tours were cancelled because a special ceremony for school kids took priority.  But they let me in.  As I walked onto the driveway, Kasey was riding in a grey pickup.  We spoke for a moment then they continued to the building.  I also, went to the office with the trouble making wheel.

The culprit was very visible.  An office staple.  A rider named Paul offered me the services of his Leatherman pliers to remove the tire piercing piece of metal.  He was prepared.  Said that he brought his family for Des Moines to ride our lovely trails.  It was very kind of him to help.  I probably would have sliced my fingers pulling the staple out.

Very nice of the baggage handlers to place our bags inside the school out of the rain.  We must have made a real mess!


Contrary to the Facebook post, I had been in for quite some time, showered, settled and now finished giving our bicycles and helmets showers which explains why I am all wet.

Back in the saddle again!  9 miles, no tubes.  No rain.  Let's do this!!  Probably the best 9 miles of the day.  Smooth, beautiful scenery, dry, no rez dogs, no flats.  Rockyford School was easy to spot.  Despite the lack of showers here, there was a "bike wash" which I used for Mary's bike and my own.  Just one more day. When I entered the school, Kasey greeted me and said that he had a car waiting to take Mary and I back to Thunder Valley for showers.  Sweet!  I wondered if he felt bad about my flat and this would somehow make it better.  It did.  Grab my shower kit and clean clothes and travel back.  Our driver was a local who has come back to study his people.  So, we bombarded him with questions.  I had the men's shower room to myself.  The water was hot.  And soon I felt better.

This is Father Zimmer.  He rides every year.  After each day's ride he celebrates Mass.  I have actually ridden with him in the past and took his photo for him in front of the church outside Gettysburg, SD. For once, I was able and had the energy to attend one of his services.  Not only did I attend but I served as a EMOHC (Extra Ordinary Minister of Holy Communion), something I do at my home church.

Representatives from Thunder Valley.


Madison received the RASDAK brand

Back to the school.  Hose off two bikes.  Lube their chains.  A food truck provided dinner but we purchased tacos from some schoolgirls.  Representatives from Thunder Valley gave a talk on work and aspirations.  A big problem is that those who can afford to send their children to boarding school.  Those that cannot, their children fall through the cracks.  The population is very widespread and there are not enough schools.  Also, most importantly, their native language is going extinct because it is not being taught.  We skipped the evening's entertainment to pack and prep for the last ride.
Kido Butai ready to Sally forth for the last day!

X-ray reveals I am obese not big boned!



Riding back to Hermosa 60 miles



Yes, Virginia, there was a bike back.

It was not raining.  Instead, the cloud settled on us.  Dense fog.  Traffic was light.  After 2 miles we turned into Badlands National Park.  A sign said there was a bike lane and route.  Despite being in a national park, this blew my mind.  The scenery would have been beautiful, but we could not see what was to our right and our left.  At least traffic was light.

Then my shoulder started hurting.  A speed killing pain.  5 miles into the day and I'm contemplating a SAG.  Any meds on me?  None.   Make headway the best I can.  

Apparently, we were climbing.  Could not see a hill but I was in my very bottom gear.  Grind it, baby, grind it.  Tracy caught up.  She asked if I could hear her breathing.  No, I could not.  But I pulled over to empty my bladder as she passed.  She related the news to Mary.  But the climb and the empty bladder seemed to take the shoulder pain away.  Get back to work.  

The day's first awe inspiring view.



Potholes were the new addition.  Smooth roads all week and now craters to avoid.  Warn those behind of them.  Be sure that those behind know that you need to veer to the left for a moment.  Potholes be damn, forward progress was being made.  The fog seemed to lighten a bit.  Cattle country.  One thing about this park was that there was a fence between the shoulder and the fog.  No one in or out.  Good.  No worries about bison.  


I believe this was on private property.  If the door faces the east, then it is set up properly.

At mile 12 we were supposed to be able to see glimpses of Stronghold Table, a sacred ground to the Lakota and possibly the site of the last Ghost Dance.  I overheard some say that the hosts, Wacante Kiyapi, say that visibility was down to 30 feet.  However, after a few miles 3 women cyclists were stopped on the left side of the road taking photos of a beautiful view.  I stopped to take my own photos.  I regret, a few moments later when the descent began, the layered rock formations were right up to the left side of the road, I failed to stop and photograph them.

Mary and I at Red Shirt Table Overlook.  Of note is my Iowa Valley Bicycle Club jersey. This was the only jersey to receive any comments.  Sadly, the IVBC disbanded this year.  In month of May they sponsored the Marshmallow Bike ride which offered many routes out of Marshalltown for cyclists of all levels.  Fitting that I wore this shirt today since my first group event with the LeMond was during this ride on a RAINY DAY!  Someone from Marshalltown spotted me trying this on (checking pocket reach) the night before.  There were several riders from M-town on RASDAK, very strong riders, who you could meet if you show up at Clark's Bar (whatever it may be called now) in Melbourne.  These cyclists ride from Marshalltown to Melbourne along the 330 Trail on Wednesday evenings.



I think I get bigger in every photo.  The Zip-Loc holds my phone, wallet and map, cue sheet side up.

Looks endless


At mile 29 another wonderful opportunity emerged, the Red Shirt Table Overlook.  Once again, this was hosted by the Wacante Kiyapi.  The sky was finally clearing, Duh. After a quick photoshoot we were off again.  In 12 miles we would be able to eat thanks to Fred and Madison.  His RV was stopped at mile 41, table spread.  Hot dogs, sandwiches, apples, sweets and coffee.  I had a hot dog and an apple.  Time to pump up my tires.  At this moment I realized that my tires were both filled by the mini-pump.  Spotting a floor pump, I fill both to 100 psi.  Trade comfort for speed.

My assumption is that this is the brand for the cattle ranch.

The dreaded cattle gate.  If it is dry, cross these suckers at 20+ mph.  It's much smoother.

Need to keep a remnant population available incase our technology suddenly disappears.

The last 17 miles were great.  Dry, sunny and scenic.  I caught up with Greg and Anne from Johnston, IA, stripping off layers.  It was finally warming up.  Greg and fellow Rasdakian Joe Hildreth retired from Mid American Energy Co at the same time.  I don't know how Anne rode with that purple winter-looking jacket but people use what they have and what works.  

Greg and Anne

Greg and Joe H

T minus 5 miles Anne and I are curving around a hill to our right and BANG BANG!!  My silent checklist springs into action.  Bike has not lost speed, wheels feel smooth and nothing fell off the bars.  

"Did you hear that?" Anne asks.
"Yes.  Do you have a flat?"
"No."  
BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG!!
"Sounds like a 22.  Someone target shooting."

No surprise.  We are out in the middle of a sparsely populated rural area in a state that allows open carry firearms.  One could fire a high-power sniper rifle and not even come within 10 miles of hitting a person, assuming the shooter did not aim at the road.  If I lived here I would be doing the same.  Keep those skills sharp, there are things out here that can kill you.

About this time or more likely a few miles back, I noticed that the clouds to my left were dark near the bottom.  At least I hoped they were clouds even if rain-laden clouds.  By the time I curved past the gun range these clouds revealed themselves to be mountains.  No, no NO!  No mas amigo!  But Greg said that those hills were what we rode on the first day when we left Hermosa.  Cool.  Long range view of what we did earlier.  I'm kinda finding my stride on these rollers and really need to recover before tackling serious climbs.  My bike needs some serious cleaning.

Finally, the town of Hermosa is reached.  First stop will be at the school to retrieve my truck keys from my luggage and then ride down to the fairgrounds to pick up the truck, pack the bikes inside and drive back to the school and load our bags.  Now most people carry their keys on them for the ride's last day.  Not me.  If something should happen, say an angry bison mistaken me for a descendent of Buffalo Bill and charges at me and throws me into a deep rocky hole never to be seen again, Mary would not be able to get inside and start the truck and drive home.  Bill Halsey said that the sea is always trying to kill you, I say the out of doors is always trying to kill cyclists.


Our luggage awaits!

We did not shower.  Merely put deodorant and clean clothes and shoes on and hit the road.  Long drive home.  Just need the big white Monster energy drink with the screw top lid, coffee, a little food to keep the stomach settled but not enough to make me drowsy.  I-90 again with its fuel sucking 80 mph speed limit.  I-29 with its fuel sucking 80 mph speed limit until we cross into Iowa with its fuel saving 70 mph speed limit.  Somewhere in the darkness my lane turned red.  This could be slick I thought.  A nanosecond later the body emerged.  99% sure it was a white-tailed deer, but it looked like a red lumpy log.  Mary screamed and the passenger side rolled over it.  Felt like a minor pothole.  Truck stayed in its lane, did not wander or move, remaining straight and the steering wheel did not fight me.  Cruise still on at 82 mph, no check engine lights and the headlights were still working.  That's a first, sloppy seconds on a deer.  An hour or so later at a rest stop I checked for damage.  Nothing.  Just dead insects, thousands of dead insects splattered on the front of the Ridgeline.  That was it for excitement.  

We arrived in Des Moines a little after midnight.  Detour City.  Orange cones and closed roads everywhere.  Had to follow a maze to get to our home.  I forgot, on Friday nights they close Court Avenue for the drunks.  A triathlon was being set up and Pridefest.  So, the cyclists who blocked roads and disrupted traffic in South Dakota received the same treatment at home.  In the morning, we had to detour to the Doggie Hotel to pick up Libby.  Yep, closed road.

OVERALL


Challenging but rewarding ride.  One must be in shape and ready.  I love the size of the ride.  200 people is a good number.  I do not like to be lost in a crowd of 20,000 cyclists.  I am glad the daily distances were not over 60 miles.  I certainly would not repeat Day One's route on the Needles Highway.  Run it from Custer again if RASDAK ever visits this section of South Dakota again.

I thought all the roads were smooth, no South Dakota KWATHUNK KWATHUNK.

The painted arrows worked well.  I only missed 2, the second was on the rainy day inside Martin.

Overnights were generally good.  Someplaces did not seem ready for us due to construction, Martin and Rockyford School.  But I never missed a shower.

I enjoyed the entertainment options.  I also thought that the Lakota presentations were very informative and important.

The locals were very courteous to us.  Often passengers in passing cars would wave and give us a thumbs up.

Food and rest breaks were nicely arranged and appreciated.

Cellphone service has greatly improved since 2013.  My phone was beeping as normal.  Mary had a few reception issues with phone calls from our bank as we are purchasing our home right now.  Originally, we would get 10 miles away from Sioux Falls and our phones became useless.  Then when we got near that city our phones would blow up from missed text, calls, emails ect.

Dignity, Chamberlain, SD

Canadian smoke is gone!


I am pretty sure, to the left of this shot, there are 3 or 4 steep grade hills that I set and tried to best speed records on before crossing that bridge through the years.  The last gift West River will give downhill speed freaks like me.  I recall one year at least two Rasdakians were visibly upset and angry that they failed to pass 50 mph.  Before this week, 46.5 mph on that road was my record.  Gets a bit gnarly at those speeds.  After 30 mph you are deaf, only the sound is the rush of air.  Set that line up right because any abrupt changes could send you straight to the pavement or off the side of the road.  And if the oncoming semi is on the shoulder, that means there is an 18-wheeler behind you.  Use a mirror.  Make sure your bike and its wheels are in great shape.



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