Wind Warriors: RASDaK 2024

 

The best daily map with the glacier ponds

Once again we loaded our bicycles and gear and headed to South Dakota for the annual bicycle ride across that great state.  This one was a bit different yet oddly familiar.  It was the "Glacial Lakes of the Prairie" ride, a tour of the northeast part of the state where glaciers left small bodies of water.  Two things made this familiar. First, this route was a loop not unlike the very last TdK, Tour Dakota 2012.  It even crossed into TdK territory, Brookings and Dell Rapids, SD, for example and there were signs to some of the cities we visited in 2012.  Second, it was very windy just as TdK was for the first few days.  It was so windy that even South Dakotans were complaining!

RASDaK normally starts in the west and goes to the east, like RAGBRAI.  I found the loop good.  It solved the logistic issue of getting to the beginning.  We would park our vehicles at the eastern terminus and load our bikes on a moving truck and gear on a bus and take said bus for something like 5 or 6 hours to the beginning over the ride.  More "jet lag" and expense, somewhere in the $100 ballpark for that ride.

One thing we learned in 2012 is that South Dakota can be an extremely windy state.  Best get up early and get to the overnight by noon.  Wind picks up in the early afternoon.  The first day of TdK 2012 the final 21-mile stretch was straight south into a 35 mph headwind with gusts up to 50 mph!  No turns, no quarter.  There were double pacelines going 6 mph.  I could manage 8 mph.  10 mph was redline.  The next day we had a tailwind but that first day is forever etched into our brains.  This year for one day was extremely brutal and all ride long.

Prologue the Gathering

Joe, myself and Mary at the local watering hole in Garretson, first visit that day.

This bicycle was ridden all week by Matt.  Previously he rode and older Schwinn that was yellow.  Takes a brave and dedicate cyclist to ride an antique like this in an age of light bikes with better gearing.  respect. 

Jeff trying to get Witcheepoo to calm down!

Witcheepoo wanted to join us!  Garretson

Jeff and Mindy saying good bye.  Mindy was smart and went home!

Mary does have Confederates in her family tree.

Jesse James' famous 70' jump over the gulch.

On Saturday June 1st we unloaded our bikes and gear at the high school in Garretson and then parked our vehicle at the football field where it would wait until Friday afternoon.  IIRC, there was a chance of rain so the decision was made to sleep in the school's gymnasium instead of our tent.  Easier than packing a wet tent in the morning.  We met up with friends, many who we only see on RASDaK, and headed downtown to find a watering hole and have dinner.  Joe, Dave Sunde, Jeff and Mindy, Rich and others were there.  Since Garretson is renown for Jesse James' 70' horseback jump over the gulch here, a street dance was organized.  Good times.

Day 1 Garretson to Brookings 59 miles

I am always in awe of the sacrifices tiny communities have made in defending our nation in times of war.  Sure, large cities also contributed to such causes but the impact was probably felt greater in towns such as this as a greater percentage of their population was sent into the breach.  After WWII these communities shrunk even further with the transition from agriculture to industrialization.  Men and women sought life in bigger cities for "better" opportunities.

The sign shows a sunrise but my camera did not perceive it.

At the 43 mile rest stop on the way to Brookings.  I ate a banana and trail mix here.

Sherman, Firefly or Tiger?  Road to Brookings.

The tank was filled with lager beer The devil himself was engineer--Love & Rockets, 'Bound for Hell'.

 My first thought whenever I see an old train

Up before dawn.  Some people got up before 4 am.  Threat of rain.  I could not find coffee.  My bad as I could have gone to the breakfast provided by the Garretson American Legion but my body runs on coffee and I normally skip breakfast and nibble throughout the day having a real meal at 6 pm.  Took me 14 miles to choke down a Larabar.  31 miles from the start we arrived at the Moody County Museum.  I asked someone there if there was coffee and she told me to help myself at the Keurig machine at the museum desk.  Outstanding!  All the pods were foo foo flavors but I had two cups of something with a nutcracker on it, Christmas blend.  Drank it black but added water to lower the temperature for fast consumption.  This is the way I discovered.  My attitude improved greatly.  Later I had a banana.

I rode a bit with Pete and Emil Knappe as I did a few times last year.  Emil, Pete's father, has a new bike, a Trek Domane e-Bike.  Lots of tailwind and cross but not that bad as I kept my speed above average.  The sky was looking dark and rain was going to hit soon.  The last bit of the ride took us to the Dakota Nature Park and Larson Nature Center, a lovely trail that ended in the city and we found our way to the school just before the rain hit.

Once in Brookings, set up sleeping pads in gym, shower and then a walk downtown for food, coffee and a ATM.  Ate at George's Greek restaurant, split a pizza with Mary and stopped at the Cottonwood Coffee Shop.  After walking back to the school we grabbed our bikes and headed downtown again for photos and an extra 3 miles.  According to my notes, dinner was burgers at the school although the route info said dinner as on our own.  My notes could be wrong.

Day 2 Brookings to Milbank 78 miles

Fog

Another rider disappearing into the fog.

Goodwin, SD

The mural on the long side.

Possibly the first time a Honda Ridgeline has been an official SAG vehicle on a large organized bicycle tour.  Would love to have seen a 1st generation NART do this.  Note tent on top.  The new owner of Spoke-N-Sport, Peter Oien.

How up is up?  Climbed all day.  Not big hills, just slight elevation increases that went on and on and on.  Nag nag NAG!  Some of them looked like hills, most seemed like false flats.  Headwind, too.  Fog, but I enjoyed the fog.  Rainbows, God's signal that he would no longer drown us all OR a sign for certain Pacific Islanders to drink beer.  You pick.  Cold brew coffee and a Larabar for breakfast.  My legs were dead by the mile 25 rest stop and I was reminded that we were climbing.  Dave Sunde rolled in on his Bianchi and we helped him off it.  Apparently, he lost the key to the battery on his trike and had to switch bikes.  John from Berry Fast Bikes had to drill the lock out and install a new one before the trike could be used again.  It was tough for Dave and he stopped at the rest stop.  I had some trail mix at mile 43 and skipped the lunch there.  

Rolling hills and eventual lunch break in Strandburg.  It was along the to this town, I call Stratosphereburg because of climbing that I discovered what "PWC" and "DNP" meant.  The road was littered with PWC and DNP spray painted on the side of the road.  They marked the future homes of "Pass With Care" and "Do Not Pass" signs.  We landed at the general store and I had a burger and two Gatorades for $9.50!  Best deal out there!  Outside there was a house getting resided with bricks but no work on Monday.  The project looked stalled.  The owner pulled up in a white truck and asked about our ride.  Said that he has two Harley Davidson motorcycles that he does not have much time to ride.  Also said that his parents gave him a bicycle for the purpose fetching mail.  That lasted for 1 ride.  Then they gave him a Cushman scooter.  Said that he has his eye on a third Harley but his wife said no.  Been working on the ice rink in Watertown 60 hours a week and that has pushed back his completion of the brick job.

$9.50 including tax!  Burger almost half eaten before the photo.

The general store in Strandburg, SD

1946 Cushman Scooter.

Downhill time!  Unfortunately, the chip rock road had many harsh expansion cracks.  Not the kathuwnk kathuwnk type but BAM BAM and BAM BAM.  No matter what speed I hit them at it hurt.  Tried standing up but that made my feet hurt.  I worried that people would either crash or bust wheels or get flats on this section.  Fortunately, this stretch was not long.  John, a SAG driver was at the final intersection.  Asked if we needed anything, water, snacks, PBR...I locked my wheels up for a PBR.  10 miles left to the overnight, why not?  Back on the road we passed a couple that we passed on the bumpy section.  One had a flat tire.  Rear wheel.  Always the rear.  Our bikes spent the night in the maintenance shed while we slept in the gym.  

Coffee--breakfast of champions!!  Milbrook HS

Eric's socks.  And why not?

My Black Cat jersey was a topic of conversation.  One rider thought it was a school mascot!  No, it is a brand of fireworks, "the best you can get" and I wore it in honor of my friend and fellow cyclist Eric Crabb who passed away in 2019.  I also wore his cycling socks with a mug of beer on them.

Reward!

Bottoms up!

Kraig Rust would have shamed us, no beer.  But we were on school property.  Dave Sunde on his trike.

We walked through the cemetery to get caffeine at Casey's after the ride.  The next morning we walked our bikes through it again to get coffee at the start of the ride.

Day 3 Milbank to Sisseton 54 miles

Brochure for Sisseton

Sunrise in Milbank

Fred.  He sells smoothies along the route.  The proceeds go to people needing organ transplants.  He had a liver transplant so he knows their needs.  The first day he was playing Abba's dancing Queen.  I stopped and danced for a bit and requested SOS! I failed to get a photo of Maddy, his dog.  A very nice dog not unknow from running into restaurants, bars and schools! I regret not purchasing a drink from him and by the day I realized that he was selling drinks I would be too late to reach his base of operations.

Truth in advertising but this road to Peever, SD, was not as bad as some we rode the day before.  On this road the bad spots were filled with a purple sealant which was easy to avoid.  

Wow!  That man lived through Hell and survived!

Peter and Emil Knapp making the turn for a smoother road and friendlier wind.  BIA 7

At the buffalo

The orange hydrate is from Iowa.

Two of the people that built the iron buffalo

Song to The Great Spirit building on the campus of Sisseton Wahpeton College

Tribal HQ

Bureau of Indian Affairs highway 7. Nice road with a shoulder.

Free trail mix that I took for on the bike food.  After awhile, my jaws were sore from eating this.

Never believe these.  We were looking for a giant hill, which we did see before turning on BIA 7 thus did not have to climb it.  Look at the scale first.  What we climb was a miserable "false flat" which sapped our speed and strength for 5 miles until the turn.

New sculpture in Sisseton.

Stopped here in the afternoon and the next morning.  Because I paid with a card I get offers in my email.  Don't know when I will return.

At first glance from a distance I thought that this was weathered but upon closer inspection it was intentional.  On a shed in Sisseton.

In the center of the above mural.

Therapy session.  Note the clear bags.  They were for riders that have yet to check in.

David and Joe outside.

Great day!  Only 5 bad miles of climb and headwind.  Wonderful tailwind on final stretch.  Cloudy with the possibility of rain but we beat the wind.  Seems to be a theme on RASDaK, get up and roll early to beat some cycling disaster.  Today had to beat the rain.  Stopped at Casey's for breakfast.  Mainly wanted a large coffee and a breakfast sandwich.  

A few miles after rolling through Wilmot, SD, we entered the Lake Traverse Indian Reservation.  Highlights included the sculpture of a buffalo and the final turn.  This was during the headwind climb section.  A welcome relief.  Two of the people that created this art project were there to answer questions.   When I first saw the buffalo I thought it was real!

We turned north and rode into the Agency Village home of the Sisseton Wahpeton Oyate (Nation) of around 14,000 members of two bands of the Dakota Indians that are part of the seven bands of the Dakota/Lakota/Nakato Nation often referred to as the Great Sioux Nation.  The rest stop was at the Sisseton Wahpeton College.  We took a side trip to photograph tribal headquarters.  Because they were in session we did not enter and paid our respect by not getting too close.  Returning to BIA 7 a local and tribal member pulled up in a SUV and talked to us.  My complement of the HQ building produced a reaction I did not expect.  He said that the money and resources spent on that building would have been better spent on education as he pointed to the college.  "70 to 80% of us live below the poverty line.  We need to stop the mentality that handouts are the way to live."

Sisseton High School was our overnight destination.  We declined to set up our tent and slept inside.  After our showers, Mary and I walked downtown for lunch.  A few of us opted for a Mexican restaurant but we ended up at a pizza Hutt.  Along the way there we photographed the new in progress sculpture.  we also saw a Tribal police car.  Both tribal and city police patrol this city driving the renown Ford Explorer.  The horse mural and the Sisseton mural were photographed during this walk.  Upon return we sat in a trailer for a therapy session with friends before attending dinner at the Family Life Assembly of God Church.  The mayor was there and we were all given a bright yellow t-shirt.  Dave Sunde and his wife gave us a ride to dinner but we walked back.  Gotta burn some calories.

Day 4 Sisseton to Clark Heading South 50 miles (supposed to be 86 or 104)

The warning came early...

The view from my sleeping bag.

Looking back on Sisseton.  Yes, now I can see that I climbed a hill.

We would soon ride that hill into the wind.

The Lake Traverse Indian Reservation

We live along the big river in what is now known as the state of Iowa.

This day has entered RASDaK lore as the toughest day ever.  Everyone that rode that day will tell their grandchildren and mightily bored they will be!  WNW wind sustained 27 mph with gusts up to 50 mph.  National Weather Service Wind Advisory was issued.  And climbing.  Significant portions of the route was into the wind.  Relief came whenever we turned south but despite improving our speed a lot of energy was expended keeping the bicycles upright and in the proper lane.  To make it more fun, with 30 miles of the end, soil was blown across farmland to create dust storms.  

Skipped breakfast and tried to find a convenience store for coffee but none were open.  My big city life was expecting something to be open by 6 am.  So we found 3 Bean Coffee again and got our coffee fix, Mary opting for hot chocolate.  The first 20 miles were due west with the longest climb of the day.  Another false flat until I stopped and looked behind at where I had come from then the hill was apparent.  But it seemed flat and the headwind did no favors except to keep us cool.  We stopped at the Nicollet Tower after a tough 4 miles and climbed all the way to the top for a wonderful view.

Then back on the bike and into the wind for 16 miles.  I could see the future and did the math.  At my average speed I would be on the road until evening. I was mentally defeated.  Physically I was fine.  After riding through Buffalo Lake, we made it to Eden where we stopped for breakfast, coffee and doughnuts.  Saw Luke, a bagger or bike packer, taking his time eating a real breakfast.  Talked to John Berry, owner of Berry Fast bicycle shop.  He remembered the shooter of vodka I had in the Domane's secret hatch two years prior.  John said we were behind the sweep, i.e. late.  John would "time warp" us from Rosalyn home of the Vinegar Musuem to Webster, SD, in his van.

Another rainbow.

Veteran cemetery.  Unfortunately, I failed to get a photo of the Native American veteran cemetery nearby as I felt pressed for time battling the wind. 

What's that?? Buffalo Lake

I risked ticks and snake bites to get this photo near Buffalo Lake.

Lovely scenery.  I stopped for the yellow contrast.

This video shows how windy it was.

Breakfast time!!

Luke's bike at Club Eden.  He powers through the worst winds and does not SAG.  Prepared for whatever.

Our view during the SAG to Webster.

John's van.  Mobile bicycle shop.  Met him on my previous RASDaK.  He got a kick out of the vodka shooter I had in the Domane's hidden compartment on that ride.  Seemed to set Chad, former owner of Spoke n Sport, off 'infringing on his turf."  But there is a need for his services.  

From Webster we rode south and were subjected to strong wind gusts.  The poles holding the crash safety guard cables were being lifted a few inches from their foundations.  Flat country with lots of lakes, ponds and sloughs.  A farmstead was underwater and all that could be seen was the barn and the farmhouse.  Apparently, this happened years ago, a lot of rain and the water never left.  Telephone poles aligned the highway in water as if they were placed in the water to begin with.  I was told that there are roads at the bottom of the water.  Then the dust storms began as we started to climb out.  The bicycle Infront of me would occasionally disappear every now and then.  My right eye received a handful of dust and that's when I cried "uncle' and gave John a thumbs down and he stopped his SAG vehicle and picked me up.  I should have found a better spot to do that in but when an opportunity presents itself, do not ignore it.  Miracle that we were not hit.  Then again, South Dakota has empty roads.  Mary was ahead of me and missed the turn for Kellers Kountry Korner (yes, KKK) gas station.  John stopped there.  A lot of bikers had called it quits there, too.  We heard over 50 had asked for a SAG and it was still kinda early.  Mary would make it past Bradley, SD, before Gyle driving another SAG told her to get in because she was being blown all over the road.  Not safe.

I saw one of these for the first time ever.  Yellow Headed Blackbird.  It was hanging out in a slough perched on a cattail with red winged black birds whom were not fighting with it.  Highlight of the windy day.

How high's the water, Honey?  30 feet high and rising! White caps??

The first dust storm.  The bright dot in the dust is the cyclist in front of me.

Teresa, my SAG partner.  Forgive me for forgetting the names of the other two.

Gary, the moment he was told that he needed to ride back to the hidden Keller's Kountry Korner for a SAG.

This man completed the century.  Several of our friends did that ride and all came in looking beat and soft voices. 

That evening we went to a Mexican restaurant withing walking distance of the school and nursed our wounds.  I think it was this night I had a 15 minute esoteric discussion with Matt about why Shimano beat Suntour in the OE market for new bikes.  I argued with what I knew, Shimano blackmailed bicycle manufacturers and forced Suntour to be speced on lower end models.  Matt said that he bought two brand new bikes in 1989, a $2000 Trek custom speced 8900 with top-of-the-line Suntour and a $200 bike with Shimano's GS 200 Sport.  The latter and cheaper bike shifted better.  I also introduced myself to Hon and Kim from Colorado.  He rides and she drives.  She's smarter.

Hon and Kim

Day 5 Clark to Arlington 68 miles Tailwind!

Edge of the Earth

Rocks at the edge of the Earth.  Jokes is on flat Earthers, the Earth is fake!  Good isolated place to relieve a bladder.

Peggy talking us about a ride across Minnesota coming up.  Strange, as I type this at 6 am it is 80° F outside yet during this ride in the morning we wore jackets.

Somehow, I'm looking for James Dean in this photo, museum in Badger.

Gary and finally able to talk.

I'm calling him Dave and I'm prolly wrong.  Need to tape a dictation machine to my arm for these rides.

John, one of the SAG drivers and my hero!

Another dust storm this time outside of Arlington.  Around here Teresa caught up and asked if she could ride with me.  She does a lot of solo riding but wanted company.  We had a wide shoulder with a few bumps.

Same wind as yesterday but the sustained crept up to 37 mph.  That was welcome as the route had us in the proper direction for such winds.  Near perfect conditions.  South and east.  Deploy sail and shift into big ring.  Highlights include riding with an older gentleman named Dave (I hope I'm right on the name).  His son gave him a heavy looking flat-bar bike and he could move it move it!  The service station in Badger, SD, sold $2 Busch Light tallboys, I had one during my stop.  Got to talk to Gary.  Did not get to ride with him this year unlike last time, our schedules were out of sync. 

Once again, we slept in the high school gym.  it was this evening that I became aware that I picked up a rhinovirus.  Not allergies but constant need to blow my nose.  Two weeks later I am still blowing my nose but stopped taking Sudafed. Sleeping with 100+ people in a gymnasium...  Went to the bars and had a great meal.  Highway Call, a band belonging to the South Dakota Rock & Roll Hall of Fame was our night's entertainment.  They were great!  

Spent the rest of the night calling local liquor stores ISO Clay Turner Straight Bourbon.  I promised my son a bottle and need one for myself.  I knew I could get it near Vermillion, but we did not want to take I-29 back because of construction.  Rather we wanted to take I-90 to I-35.  But no joy and I-29 it was.

Day 6 Arlington to Garretson 77 miles

An inspiration to us all!  Mr. Dave Sunde

Dave Sunde's words

Bryant whose son has a degree in chemical engineering and works for Sazerac, the owner of Buffalo Trace Bourbon.  Currently he is with Buffalo Trace but previously was on the FireBall line.

I get a kick out of interesting mailboxes!

South Dakota is Beef Country.  There is a Team Beef with Jerseys on this ride.

Mascot for the Flyers, Chester, SD.

Crossing I-29

Objective Complete!  Two bottles.  Mary made me give the smaller one to Tim.  Good idea because it would be gone by now!

Last day.  Long for a last day.  Must beat the rain.  The sky turned black.  So hurry, hurry hurry!  Crossed I-29 and rode into Gell Rapids, the final starting and ending town for the very last Tour de Kota.  I wonder if the unicyclist bartender still lives there?  Outside of Garretson, two Sherriff cars drove past us.  A SUV collided with a tractor on a narrow county road.  By the time I got there the BMW was on a flatbed.  Mary said that the tractor drove away.  A bit later a car rear ended another car.  Dave on the flat-bar was stopped before the final push south, debating whether or not to put his rain jacket on.  A few sprinkles had been felt but I gambled and rode without putting mine on.

Once in Garretson, I headed straight to our vehicle, loaded my bike and noticed a flat tire.  SHITE!  Fortunately, I had my portable tire inflator and aired that sucka up.  It held for two weeks and now is in the shop getting fixed along with the brakes.  Drove to the school and picked up our gear and headed home.  The truck stop outside Vermilion and the welcome center sells the bourbon I needed.  $100 later we were back on the road.

Final Thoughts

Not a ride for the faint of heart.  This year the weather, except for the wind, was good.  Not hot.  We have done this ride when it started at 100°F, 50s and rain, too.  We have seen snow in the ditches.  Not hot this year.  My joke about RASDaK is that when you leave town and pass the gas station/convenience store you will not see another one for 80 miles still is true.  The route takes people on less traveled roads and there are not many towns in this state.  be prepared and pack accordingly.  There are plenty of rest stops available and marked on the map for refilling water and food.  If you think this is RAGBRAI you are mistaken.  Get your work done and then party/drink.  People wake up early, 430 am, for a reason, beat the wind and beat the heat.  The SAG drivers do not need to be out on the roads for 14 hours.

This may have been our first RASDaK without a flat tire or.  I was a bit worried as I believe the tires we took were already RASDaK veterans, I think.  Definitely will replace them soon.  Perhaps it was our inability to do training rides this year that spared us the hassle of a flat tire.  Bad weather on weekends and other commitments hindered our training this year.  Having to forego the ride last year for a trip to Wyoming also increased the life of these tires.  No mechanical issues, either. I did wipe the chains down and applied lube to them two times after dusty days.

South Dakota is a beautiful state and I hope to return again and not just for the bourbon.

Weather warning.  Prolly wind.  of course, we are somewhere in the circled area.

Group photo

Another mascot, Arlington, SD.

Best friends! Arlington, SD.

Before the band started there was a limerick contest.  Every contestant had a RASDaK related limerick.  Mine was not so I am glad I did not enter the competition!

At first glance I thought she was holding a knife.

The back of the shirt given to us in Sisseton.  This became a joke for the next few days.  "Hey man, nice shirt!  Where did you get it?  Reply, "I paid about $700 for two of them and two jerseys."

That's all, Folks!